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When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.